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Gary Williams
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Can’t Make a Budget Work? Try Filling Your Buckets
Whether you are trying to save money or lose weight, there is no one-size-fits-all solution. However, as with dieting, sometimes the financial strategies that work the best are a little bit offbeat, even fun. Consider, for example, the success of Bank of America’s “Keep the Change” program where your debit card purchases are rounded up to the closest dollar and the difference is transferred from your checking to your savings account. Another savings strategy found to be effective is the “bucket concept.” Rather than adhere to the traditional budgeting chore of writing down your expenses and tracking them each month, the bucket concept requires you to divide your spending into six categories and assign a specific percentage to each bucket.

The bucket approach was first encountered in Secrets of the Millionaire Mind: Mastering the Inner Game of Wealth by T. Harv Eker. In his book, a New York Times bestseller, Eker suggests dividing your income this way:

• 50% for necessities such as your mortgage or rent payment, car payments, groceries, utilities, gas, internet, cell phone, etc.

• 10% for long-term savings to fund vacations, car repairs, house maintenance, clothes, etc.

• 10% for retirement accounts such as your 401(k) plan or IRAs.

• 10% for fun.

• 10% for education, from repaying student loans or funding your continuing personal development to saving for your children’s college education.

• 10% for charity.

When making your allocations to each bucket, consider 100% of your total after-tax income. This means that, in addition to income you earn, you also divide inheritances, bonuses, even your tax refund into six categories. Eker’s key is that this money should never be commingled. That is, you cannot borrow from long-term savings to fund a dinner out or forgo your regular deposit into the education bucket when your charity bucket is empty and you want to contribute $100 to your friend’s bike-a-thon.

The easiest way to fund each bucket would be to open separate checking accounts and have the appropriate percentage of your paycheck deposited into each account. This may not be feasible with your employer and could involve significant banking fees. Of course, you can open a 529 college savings plan and an IRA and have your education and retirement accounts funded directly from your checking account. Also, if you have a 401(k) at work, that account is funded automatically before you receive your check.

Interestingly, however, many people report success with substituting jars for checking accounts, particularly for the fun account where it is easy to spend cash. Perhaps that’s because by actually placing money in a jar it encourages them to think about finance more often than at bill-paying time or during an annual review with a financial advisor. Using a jar also can be especially effective if you are trying to save for a family vacation. For example, as your family sees the savings accumulate, they may be more inclined to make sacrifices to stay within your food budget. Of course, if you’d rather keep your long-term savings in a money market account to earn interest, putting a piece of paper noting the amount you invested in that account could also serve to motivate your family.

In discussing the bucket concept with clients, there are some common reactions. Most notably, many say that they spend far more than 50% of their income on necessities. In fact, given the high cost of living in particular parts of the country, surviving on half of what you make may be an impossible goal. Naturally, you can adjust Eker’s percentages to reflect your own circumstances. For example, if you need 65% for necessities, you might drop education, charity, and long-term savings to 5%. However, you are encouraged to at least reflect on the possibility of living on 50% of your income. Often, simply considering the idea can help you start to prioritize your expenses and to think more proactively about what you are spending your money on each month. In fact, quite a few clients have come to the realization that they were living in a house that was too expensive for them.

Debt is another issue that can throw a wrench into Eker’s ideal percentages. If you have significant consumer debt, you may need to direct more than 50% to your necessities bucket in order to help you dig out of that hole as soon as possible. However, once you are out of debt, funding your long-term savings account can help you stay debt-free. That is, as your long-term savings account builds up over time, you’ll have a cushion so that you won’t have to pull out your plastic to manage an unexpected car or home repair bill. In that sense, your long-term savings can also function as the traditional “emergency account.”

Finally, Eker insists that your fun money be spent on a regular basis. Arguing that most budget plans fail because they create a spending plan that is too tight for comfort, Eker stipulates that fun money cannot accumulate for more than 90 days. Think of spending money on yourself as both a reward for saving in other buckets and as a means of re-energizing yourself to save more.

If you are considering implementing the bucket theory, it is suggested you keep in mind another piece of advice from T. Harv Eker. He believes that what we focus on expands and grows. Accordingly, he suggests that for at least seven days after implementing any financial self-improvement plan, you do absolutely no complaining – not out loud, not in a whisper, not even in a passing thought. The positive energy you create – in combination with the structurally sound bucket approach to budgeting – may be just what you need to move further down the road to financial freedom.
 
Friday, August 1, 2008
What to Consider When Shopping for an Advisor
How do you find the right financial advisor for you?

With seemingly endless market volatility, more people are looking for a first or a replacement financial advisor. Here are a few questions you should ask a potential advisor to determine if he or she is the right fit for you.

1. "How much experience do you have?"
Seek help from someone who has at least five years experience in the business, preferably much more.

2. "How many clients do you have?"
You should know if you’d be one of 50 or 500 clients.

3. "What services do you provide?"
Is the advisor’s practice limited to investment management? Or, can he or she provide estate, cash flow planning, retirement, or other important services?

4. "What distinguishes you from other advisors?"
The answer can provide insight into the advisor’s strengths, priorities, and values.

5. "Have you had any complaints lodged or disciplinary action taken against you?"
You should confirm this by checking the web sites of the Financial Industry Regulatory Authority, the Central Registration Depository, the Department of Banking, or the Securities and Exchange Commission.

6. "Can you provide the names of three clients who left you in the last five years?"
Any advisor can find satisfied clients for references. You can learn more from those who left the firm. Every advisor has some turnover. If the clients left because of extenuating circumstances, but were satisfied with the service, you are probably on to a good advisor.

7. "What was your biggest mistake in the last five years?"
Be wary of the advisor who says he or she did not make any. We all make mistakes. Admitting to them is one mark of an honest advisor.

8. "How do you get paid?"
Advisors can get paid through commissions or fees. In the latter case, the advisor charges a percentage of assets under management and/or an hourly or flat fee for time. Be comfortable with the way your advisor is paid.

9. "Do you use proprietary products?"
An advisor who works for a company that offers its own investment products may receive a financial incentive to use them. This may influence his or her choice of investments in which to put your money.

10. "What are your professional credentials?"
Anyone can call him or herself a financial advisor. Look for one who has completed a national education program in financial planning and earned credentials such as CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional, Personal Financial Specialist (PFS), Chartered Financial Consultant (ChFC), or Chartered Financial Analyst (CFA). In addition to passing a standardized exam, such individuals are required to maintain their status with continuing education courses.

Bogus designations, especially those geared toward seniors, are a red flag.

11. "How do you educate clients?"
Does the advisor provide educational workshops or conference calls to their clients? What book would he or she recommend for learning about finances?

12. Does the advisor articulate a clear investment and wealth-building philosophy?
You need to match up. By understanding your advisor’s beliefs, you can determine if you are compatible. Also, ask, "How do you determine the level of risk in a portfolio? How often do you rebalance the portfolio and using what criteria?"

These questions are just a guide. Asking them will help improve your chances of finding the right advisor for you.
 
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Don’t Let the Declining U.S. Dollar Ruin Your European Vacation
It’s not a happy story. Between 2002 and 2007, the dollar fell 33.4% against the euro, an average of 6.7% per year. While the large and increasing deficits in the U.S. trade balance are at the root of the long decline, the instability caused this year by the subprime mortgage crisis has hastened the greenback’s plunge. Since the beginning of the year, the value of the dollar already has eroded 7% against the euro which rose above $1.60 in mid April 2008 for the first time ever. Seemingly, the dollar is losing its appeal across the world. For the first time in more than a decade, in mid-April the dollar bought less than 7 yuan, ending the day close to 6.992 yuan.

Surprisingly, however, according to travel agents and industry analysts, the dollar’s steady decline isn’t keeping American vacationers at home. In fact, there’s been an increase in international travel, even to Europe where a cup of coffee can cost nearly ten dollars, making your copy of Europe on $5 a Day look like a real antique. According to a recent New York Times article, 13.25 million Americans visited Europe in 2007, a 2.7% increase over 2006. Looking ahead, industry analysts expect that number will at least remain flat, and perhaps increase slightly through 2008. Travelers are, however, making some changes in their vacation plans. For instance, the number of American visitors to the less expensive Portugal increased 20% in 2007.

If you planned your dream European vacation trip a year ago and are getting nervous about the trip’s rising cost, there are ways to economize so that the unfavorable exchange rate doesn’t ruin your vacation – or put you in major debt upon your return.

Consider tour packages. Although you would think that having someone else do the legwork and organize your trip would be more expensive than doing the planning on your own, the reverse is true. In fact, packages can easily trim 25% or more off the cost of hotels and airfares. Cruises also can be a surprisingly affordable alternative.

Avoid downtown hotels. Sure, it’s great to stay in the center of town, but all that convenience can mean a big price tag. Industry experts say hotels away from the tourist centers are usually 15% to 40% cheaper and, because most major European cites offer excellent, affordable public transportation, you won’t compromise your ability to reach the major tourist attractions. Another tip: Choose hotels that quote and guarantee rates in U.S. dollars so there are no surprises when your credit card statement arrives. Renting an apartment or house often gives you more space for less money and having kitchen facilities means you can cook for yourself rather than blowing your budget in overpriced restaurants.

Use your boots for walking. You can best experience the real flavor of a city on foot. If you do need to travel beyond a city’s network of trains and local buses, rent a car for only as long as you need it rather than for your entire stay. If you plan extensive travel, a Eurail pass may save you money. Also, remember an overnight train ride can save you the cost of a night’s lodging.

Score on free and discounted entertainment. Many European museums offer free admission on certain days or nights of the week or at certain times of the month. This is especially true for students. Check ahead and schedule your visit accordingly. Also, most major cities offer special cards that include combination discounts for multiple museums and local attractions.

Go shopping – at the grocery store. Stock up on bottled water and snacks at grocery stores and carry your supplies with you each day rather than falling prey to the tourist traps. Also, if you make lunch your big meal of the day, you can enjoy expensive dinner dishes for half the price. Avoid restaurants that post tourist-friendly English menus and discover places frequented by the locals.

Manage your money. Bank ATMs are your best bet for a combination of a fair exchange rate and low surcharges and fees. At a bank ATM, your bank likely will charge a transaction fee of 1% to 2%, but you’ll also get the favorable interbank exchange rate rather than the higher rates you’ll find at foreign exchange bureaus. If you must use a currency exchange counter, stay clear of airport or train station kiosks where you are almost guaranteed to get the worst rate available and highest transaction fees. If you plan on swiping your plastic through Europe, keep in mind that although credit card companies generally utilize favorable exchange rates, they sometimes charge fees for purchases made in foreign currencies, usually 1% to 2%. Before you travel, check with your credit card companies to figure out which card has the lowest fees for foreign purchases.

If you are just beginning to plan a European vacation, visit www.XE.com, a popular currency and foreign exchange site with an easy-to-understand tool for determining value. Additionally, the site offers an online tool that tracks historical rates and a travel expenses calculator to help you plan your budget. If you don’t like the numbers you see on the site, remember there are alternatives, even bargain destinations. For example, in the February 2008 issue of Condé Nast’s Traveler, Debra A. Klein’s “Dollar Power,” lists a number of exotic destinations where the U.S. dollar is holding its own. For example, she notes that many Caribbean islands either have their currency pegged to the greenback or accept U.S. dollars as currency. Some of these islands are Antigua; Grenada; St. Kitts and Nevis; St. Lucia; St. Vincent; and the Grenadines. Also, although the currencies of Argentina, Brazil, and Chile are strengthening significantly against the dollar, she urges vacationers to consider the region’s “emerging destinations.” Writes Klein, “Suriname has untrammeled forests, turtle nesting areas, and an economy with a de facto dollar peg. Even closer to home, Belize and Panama, where the currencies are linked to the U.S. dollar, are among the continent's most affordable destinations. Costa Rica's pristine beaches and verdant rain forests seem all the lovelier now that your dollar buys 33% more this year than it did in 2002.”

A final few words of advice: If you’re preparing for your vacation by learning some of the local language, add “Can I get a better price?” to your lexicon. Lastly, remember that your vacation goal is to enjoy some well-deserved rest and relaxation, not to drive yourself crazy working to get the best price on everything.
 
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Don’t Let Your Emotions Cloud Investment Judgment
Ah … the good old days when an investor would pay anything for a pre-construction condo in Boca Raton. Why? When finished, the condo would presumably be worth a quarter of a million dollars more and you’d carry it with borrowed money.

Wrong, in most cases. This has been a painful lesson for many people.

One of the more common behavioral mistakes that investors make involves euphoria. Nick Murray, author of Simple Wealth, Inevitable Wealth, says this is more than greed – people get completely blissed out and lose all sense of danger.

A definition of risk is the chance that an investment will lose value. When you reach out for higher and higher returns because someone else is getting them – and you forget that higher returns mean taking more risk – you have entered the euphoria zone. You have been blinded to the fact that risk rises along with price.

According to Murray, panic (another behavioral mistake) follows, and sometimes accompanies, the euphoria stage. The higher the euphoria, the deeper the panic or capitulation. When prices start to fall, you lose composure and believe your investment price will never come back. You have to get out at any price.

If panic overtakes you, you’ll need to make two decisions:

• First, you must decide when to sell.

• Second, you must decide when to get back into the market.

Your odds of being right on both decisions are very low.

We make other behavioral mistakes as well, says Murray. They include:

• Under-diversification – This involves the often costly narrowing of a portfolio to essentially one idea. This can be a sector (example, technology stocks) or a company. If you worked for Bear Stearns and invested the majority of your assets in the company stock, you found out the hard way of under-diversification.

"When you own one idea, all the lights go out and … pretty quickly," says Murray.

• Over-diversification – This is when you dilute your investment value by trying to own everything. The root of this mistake is the inability to make choices. The solution is to focus a portfolio with a finite number of meaningful investments.

• Making portfolio decisions based on your cost basis – This means you let your cost basis dictate an investment decision just to avoid paying capital gains taxes. This is seldom prudent. When you let taxes drive the decision, you are bound to crash.

• Investing for yield instead of total return – This is the great behavioral mistake of the American retiree. Many go into retirement mistaking current yield as the only source of income. They end up buying a lot of bonds and not a lot of equities. The recent volatility in the bond market has surprised many investors.

Today, when we go to the gas pump or grocery store, we know costs are rising. According to Morningstar, the compounded annual return (after taxes and inflation) from 1929 to 2007 for large stocks was 5%; for long-term government bonds, 0.4%; and for 30-day Treasury bills, -0.7%.

The great long-term financial risk isn’t loss of principal, but erosion of purchasing power. Many of us greatly overestimate the long-term risk of owning stocks, and more insidiously, underestimate the long-term risk of not owning stocks.
 
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
The New Place to Spend Retirement: At Work
Despite the enduring image that marketers portray of retirees lounging on the beach, the reality is that a greater number of older workers are in the labor force than ever before.

According to the Employee Benefit Research Institute, 45 percent of people age 55 and older are still in the workforce. Twenty-nine percent of people ages 65–69 are still working as well.

Americans of retirement age opt to stay in the working world for many reasons, including to transition their career to part-time, to make extra money, or to start their own companies. Many of us are also living longer and taking better care of ourselves, and we don’t feel like slowing down. In today’s world, retirement can last 20 years or more, so we want something meaningful to do to fill that time.

Some people, however, may not find working into their retirement years a matter of choice. They may need to keep working to add to their savings, keep their insurance coverage, or attain their full retirement age to receive their full social security benefits.

Employers may also find it necessary to hang on to their older workers. Nearly 80 million baby boomers are facing retirement, yet there are only about 50 million Gen-Xers to fill those places in the workforce. Companies are discovering that they need to keep their experienced workers as long as possible and are more amenable to part-time, consultative, or job-sharing arrangements to retain skilled workers.

Regardless of the reasons you may continue working, there are several financial implications you should consider:

You can make more money. According to the Congressional Budget Office, each year that a person of at least age 62 postpones retirement, he or she reduces the need to increase his or her retirement savings by about 5 percent. It also gives that individual more time to earn interest on assets he or she has already accumulated. And getting health coverage, even if an employer only partially subsidizes it, can save you hundreds of dollars a month.

Your social security benefits may be affected. Depending on your financial situation, you may find it best to wait until you reach your full retirement age to start collecting social security. If you start receiving social security before you reach full retirement age, your total benefits may be drastically reduced: for every $2 you earn over $13,560, you will reduce your social security benefits by $1. This applies to work income, not income from investments, pensions, annuities, capital gains, or interest.

If you’re married, your spouse may want to delay receiving his or her benefits to reduce your total income for tax purposes and to provide a future income stream.

The good news is that once you reach your full retirement age, you can work as much as you want without reducing your social security. Visit www.socialsecurity.gov/retire2/agereduction.htm to find your full retirement age.

Being your own boss may have certain benefits. If you set up your own incorporated business, you may be able to deduct everyday expenses like work-related phone usage, a new computer, office space rentals, and travel expenses. Plus, you can open up a new retirement plan and contribute to it.

Simplified Employee Pensions (SEPs), Savings Incentive Match Plans for Employees (SIMPLEs), and qualified plans such as Keoghs are designed to benefit small businesses and sole proprietorships. They have the same advantages of tax-deferred growth plans, like 401(k)s and 403(b)s, and contributions are tax-deductible. Your own business could match the contributions you, as an employee, might make.

Working might result in certain penalties or income reduction. Take care that your extra income from working doesn’t bump you into a higher tax bracket. Chances are, you’re probably paying for your retirement from several sources of income, such as a pension, 401(k), IRA, and social security. If you are older than age 70½, you are likely taking the required minimum distribution (RMD) from your retirement plan accounts as well. Add a paycheck to that mix and you might be making more money than you thought. This can also expose more of your social security benefits to income tax.

In addition, if you are or were a state or public employee, check with your retirement board to see whether you are subject to income restrictions or whether working will impact how much pension money you receive.

Does all this mean that working in retirement is pointless? Of course not; it just requires forethought and careful planning on your part—and the guidance of your trusted financial advisor to address your particular questions and concerns.
 
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Pay Yourself First
You already pay your bills on time. So, why not treat retirement savings as a regular monthly bill rather than seeing it as optional?

We know we should save, but there are competing priorities; so funding the retirement account often comes last. The kids want to go to college, and you would like a new boat. But treating your retirement savings as another bill that you must pay will keep it at the front of your mind. You won’t miss payments if you realize that, just like with the mortgage or electric bill, getting behind has consequences.

This simple sounding solution comes from the sophisticated world of institutional investing. Pension fund managers, for example, have to treat future obligations (payments to pensioners) as liabilities. That forces them to deal now with something that may be years or decades away. Using actuarial tables, they calculate the cost of future obligations to determine what return they require on their investments and whether the pension fund is adequate.

While you may not use actuarial tables, you can manage your retirement account like a pension fund. First, determine the savings you need to support the lifestyle you want during retirement. Keep in mind that you probably want to fund retirement through age 90 or 95.

Next, determine how many years you have to reach your savings goal. If you are 45 and plan to retire at 62, for example, you have 17 years to fund your retirement account. Finally, determine how much you must save each year and make projections about returns on your investments.

If you’re already funding your retirement goal by contributing to a 401(k) or other plan at work, treating that money along with all of your other retirement savings as a liability may provide you with a more realistic picture about how much you need to put away. It may also help you envision the quality of retirement you should expect and spur you to save more.

A simple way to establish a monthly liability for your retirement obligation is to divide your goal into equal installments. So, if you have 17 years to save $500,000, divide that obligation into 204 monthly payments of just over $2,450 per month. Given the expected growth of your investments, you’re likely to “over-fund” your retirement obligation. If you want to calculate your payments more precisely, include estimates for the impact of inflation, investment returns, and taxes.

By treating your retirement account as a liability, you’ll be paying yourself along with your other debts. Of course, making calculations about how much you need to save today to fund a debt in the future, while also making judgments about inflation, taxes, and selecting the right investments, may require professional help. Create a disciplined system for planning your retirement now and paying yourself first so you can enjoy your leisure years later.
 
Thursday, March 6, 2008
How to Donate Money Effectively
Whether it’s the holidays or an unexpected disaster, Americans are always willing to donate to those less fortunate. It’s the easiest thing in the world for us to open our checkbooks to a worthy cause without a second thought.

Yet your donation, regardless of size, should make the largest impact possible on your cherished causes and issues. When you support a charity’s best interests, you’re not selfish to support your own as well.

Give to efficient operations

In a perfect world, every cent you donate would go to fulfilling the mission you support. But some portion of every dollar goes to staff salaries, rent, fundraising, mailings, and possibly professional telemarketers. These expenses may leave your cause with very little.

Well-run organizations put most of your money toward their services or programs, not their operational overhead. The American Institute for Philanthropy recommends that no more than 40 percent of your charitable donation should go to overhead expenses; other charity watchdogs advise 25 percent. (This may not apply to newer, smaller, or more obscure causes.)

This percentage can be determined by requesting a charity’s IRS Form 990, required for a nonprofit to prove its tax-exempt status. Federal law requires charities to provide the form for the past three years to anyone who asks. Divide line 13 (Program Services) by line 17 (Total Expenses) to calculate the percentage paid to services and programs versus overhead expenses.

You can research charities with The American Institute of Philanthropy’s www.charitywatch.org, the Better Business Bureau Wise Giving Alliance’s Give.org, or Philanthropic Research, Inc’s. www.guidestar.org. All provide information on charities and their efficiencies.

You can also ask for the charity’s annual reports. The report should include the mission statement, board of directors, and the year’s accomplishments and finances. See if the charity’s goals seem reasonable and achievable. If the charity tells you a report isn’t available, is too expensive to mail, or otherwise discourages your interest, don’t contribute.

Avoid the scam artists

Unfortunately, there are people who try to take advantage of others’ generosity. Here are ways to reduce your chances of falling victim:

• If a solicitor mentions previous pledges you don’t remember, check your records first. Don’t fund donations you didn’t make.

• Don’t provide personal financial information in an e-mail, over the phone, or to door-to-door fundraisers. Use a website like www.networkforgood.org to donate safely with your credit card to over one million organizations. Ignore email solicitations from organizations you don’t support.

• Never give cash, or make checks out to Cash, or to an individual. Write checks out to the charity’s exact name, not initials. Some scammers use names that are similar to well-known ones.

• Don’t be swayed by on-the-spot high-pressure tactics or emotional sad stories. Ask for written information, or check the charity out online first.

• While many representatives for charitable causes are genuine, be aware of swindlers who often pretend to represent causes for missing children, soldiers or veterans, firefighters and police, or whatever disaster is in the news.

Know your tax benefits

Your philanthropy may provide possible tax advantages. Tax exempt organizations are not required to pay taxes. Tax-deductible donations are those you can deduct from your taxes if you itemize. The IRS has a listing of organizations to which deductions are tax-deductible per section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code.

The IRS now requires actual receipts for all tax-deductible contributions of $250 or more. You should use an independent appraiser when donating property worth more than $5,000. The IRS won’t take your or the charity’s word for it. Consult your tax advisor for more help.

Reduce your solicitations

Many charities rent or trade their donor lists to other organizations to raise much-needed funds. As a result, you might get more requests in the mail the more you donate. The National Do Not Call Registry doesn’t apply to nonprofit organizations.

You can send a letter, along with your donations, asking that the recipient not rent, sell, or trade your personal information, name, or donation history to anyone. Or ask the recipient to limit its solicitations to only a few times a year. Explain that your future support is contingent on its cooperation.

When your charity complies with your request, consider increasing your donations to reward it and to offset any lost revenue from renting your name.

If you are receiving unsolicited address labels, note cards, pens, pads, or other gifts from charities, you are not obligated to make a donation in return. To stop receiving these mailings, return the charity’s envelope with a note requesting that your name be removed from its list. Be aware, however, that the organization might not be able to remove your name if it rented the list from a list provider.

Politely decline in-person solicitations by saying, “I limit my support to charities that I know well and support the causes that are most important to me.” Consider concentrating your support to singular missions, such as curing cancer; or to helping institutions in your hometown.

Become a stakeholder in the cause you support. You deserve to know how your money is used. With a little research, you can feel confident your donations are being used wisely to better the world.


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Gary Williams is a financial adviser and the President of Williams Asset Management practicing at 8850 Columbia 100 Parkway, Suite 204, Columbia, MD 21045. He offers securities and advisory services as an investment adviser representative of Commonwealth Financial Network®—a member firm of FINRA/SIPC and a Registered Investment Adviser. He can be reached at (410) 740-0220 or at Gary@WilliamsAssetManagement.com.

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