Tony Foreman's Tony New Restaurant - CINGHIALE Ambiance and Design: A
See and Be Seen: A
Service: A
Wine List: A
Food: C

This blog is late, and I have been duly chastised for it. I have procrastinated because I wanted to write a better review. I really like this restaurant, but for all the wrong reasons.

I have been 4 times and will be going again this week. You see, I am stubborn. I don't want to give up. I want them to have better food! They've gotten everything else so right!

From the endless marble bar with the anachronistic chain-and-pulley ceiling fan above, the design beckons to me like Homer's sirens. The casual Enoteca provides a casual gathering place for after work, or if you feel like wearing jeans. If you want to run into the hunt valley set or an old girlfriend, dress up and sit in the Osteria, where the menu is more upscale. The walls are draped in silk and the art is gallery hung.

Foreman also owns Bin 604 and really knows his wines. The vast list has great bargains as well as fine reserve wines - all Italian. We started with a glass of Prosseco at the bar before moving to our table, upon which, the Sommeliere (Holly, whom we recognized from Petit Louis-Tony knows how to retain good people) dropped by to proffer suggestions. The wine she chose was not only a bargain but exactly what I had described as my preference. The entire wait staff is highly trained, coached in the preparation of each dish, proper pronunciation and the powers of verbal description - all the while remaining cordial and pleasant as a testament to Foreman's management skills. Until this point, the entire experience can only be described as excellent.

Alas, I must now talk about the food. It cannot be said that it is bad, quite the contrary. But it is not excellent. It should be excellent, sublime, savory, and satiating. The portions are so small as to appear penurious. We were quizzical enough to ask, "Are you certain this is a full portion and not a half?"

Rissoto is not expensive to make, and it should be filling and satisfying on an autumn night; not three spoonfuls. The entree of Ahi tuna for $29.00 is three quarter size bites looking quite lost on a large oval plate. I looked up hungrily and wanted to whimper, "Please? Is this really all? But I'm so hungry!"

Not wanting to make the same mistake twice, on my second visit I ordered a full portion of my favorite pasta, Gnocchi. A half portion is $14, full is $26. It was described as having shrimp and rappini. By even the most anorexic of standards, this would be a half portion. There were five bites of stretchy, doughy gnocchi, one shrimp and not a trace of rappini.

Again, we all left hungry, considering whether or not to stop by Pazo, where they now serve full portions.

http://www.cinghlae-osteria.com

Labels: Baltimore, Italian, Pazo

  12:22 PM •